Of all the darn luck, I was just started to think I was really slow (okay I am a little) when all the sudden it was like I could even get to 4-5 gear on BL1R on CRTA.

A went to check calibration and my Brake axis would not go out all the way. So I was dragging like 10-20% braking all over the place.

I exited, and check Control Panel, it did the same thing. Brake Pot seems to have messed up?

Is surgery in order? Does this sound hardware or software?

Damn, I hate when this happens.

~~~~~~~~
So after disection and some web searching all those hours of waiting for RL was not wasted. I recalled this problem from the past.

This is a Google cache link with highlighting so you can skip to relevant posts more quickly
"Only 80% of Gas" RSC.net

I am prepared to take pictures of with my computer microscope in order to solve this software/hardware conspiracy theories.
I believe this is a hardware problem completely. The software solutions only mask the fault reading of the pot. Either due to the pot internal, or it's holding pin.

See this page from some good pictures and solid content.
Logitech Pedal Maintenance -- LugNutsRacing.com

So now my only question is..
Where can I get some really cool pots to put in this thing?

PS . let me know if anyone wants pictures while I've got it open. Although I'm sure they are Internetted somewhere.

Cargo, how new is the MOMO? So that's why you bugged outta there without allowing me to race you . Anyways, if you've never had your pedals apart yet, then check this site out http://web.axelero.hu/mozso/momo_e5.html

You could have a loose pot in there, they are only held in with a little plastic tab. The pots are mounted on the inside of each pedal, thus if one is loose, the wires get crossed up and can prevent it from "falling back in place" or something. Also, it could be the problematic pedal spiking, which a very simple fix is in that website above.

Remember Westhill in NAL? I was getting 50% throttle every time I pressed the brakes! Makes it really tough to brake at Westhill speeds for the final corner when you have 50% throttle going, LOL. I dove into my pedals after that race and did the electrical tape wrap around the pedal axis (from the website up there) and used some type of sealant, blue goo, silicone, whatever, to "glue" the pots in place. Didn't want to use actual glue so that the tab would possibly break off at some point. I haven't had a problem since, except just my luck, the little positioning tab did break off. I just superglued it back in the 2nd time.

Hi,

Nice post. I will check out these sites.
I had a similar problem, only mine was that the throttle wasn't going all the way down all of the time and I was getting blown away. (I thought it was just because I am slow)

I was told that the throttle bar and brake bars had to have a white cap at the top to show that they were working 100%.

After cleaning out the Accelerator pedal it worked better but wan't perfect. I have had to uninstall all the Logitech software, reinstall it and then update it to Vista.

It now seems to work perfectly as when I press the accelerator I get a solid throttle bar with a white cap on it.

Ever since I have been playing LFS I had never seen this.

Lets hope my times now start to improve.

Cheers
CRAIG

Hey NightHawk, hell yeah, I was just getting into it and all of the sudden I was trail braking the entire lap. Haha.
So, I had the whole thing apart last night and even put a order in to DigiKey for the $17 pot kit (backordered though, maybe not available).

That's a good link, I found some other old forum posts from 2004 that had good info as well, including the Digi-Key replacement part.

So, I took a good look and all the external bits looked great. I rotated the pot with my finger after I got it out and I think it's internal. It feels rough at times, then smooth. The actual range of motion of the pedal opposed to the full pot range is quite small.

Mines a Refurb from an online store, so it's true age is unknown. I've used it for about 2 years I think at least.

And I really can't see the value in putting FrexGP SuperTurboIntercooledHaliBot Pot in there at $55.

Yeah, last time I looked due to the broken tab on my pot, it seemed that it wasn't available at Digi-key any more .

If you havn't recieved your new pot yet and still want to race there is an easy solution to enable short term fix, as follows.

Set up and plug in wheel
start LFS, join server and pit out, or pit out in single player any car will do.
Press shift+O, click controls, click axis/ff, click recalibrate axis, now press both pedals but only press them to about 80-90% of full travel, then let them return
Rotate wheel left then right to full lock and back, now click yes to calibration lock (this lets LFS believe that 80% is 100%)
Exit options menu and test on track
If no better recalibrate again, and only press pedals 60-70% full travel, it can take some getting used to.

I have used the above method many times as sometimes I just want to race and think about taking the pedals apart another time.


SD.

BTW, despite my best attempts at breaking the thing, I just re-lubed, put it back to together, and all is well.

I'd say that the little tab wiggled out of it's holder too much, and that caused the issue. I think. We'll see if/when next time it happens. But for now, all good.