Driving Force Pro Configuration [Archive]

AJS

12th August 2005, 11:06

kamkorPL

12th August 2005, 12:24

Shouldn't that be in Racing Wheels subforum?

Besides, with 900degrees you get more steering on your dfp than in lfs. 720 degrees is perfect synchronization :).

AJS

12th August 2005, 19:53

Oh look there´s a racing wheels subforum. doh. can a mod move the topic please ?

Dunno about the steering though. If i set degrees of rotation to 900 in the driving force pro settings and 900 ín LFS plus wheel turn compensation to 0.00 it really turns all the way in LFS. When i had wheel turn compensation set to 1.00 then i got more steering on my dfp than in LFS.

kamkorPL

12th August 2005, 21:56

But there isnt a car that uses 900 degrees in lfs. Street cars use 720, gtr cars n. degrees and so on.

Janezki

12th August 2005, 22:50

***moved to Racing wheels***

Woz

14th August 2005, 04:35

with the DFP I set the drivers to have a lock of 720 and steer reduction of 1. With full steer reduction on the DFP it means every car will have the ccorrect lock.

Theafro

14th August 2005, 14:18

i don't think that's linear tho'

contourSVT

14th August 2005, 17:01

Driving Force Pro Settings:

Overall Effects Strength: 59%

Spring Effect Strength: 38%

Damper Effect Strength: 45%

Center Spring Strength: 101%

That's what feels best for me

Dunno how you guys can play with no resistence, if I wanna do that I'll just unplug the power supply.

colcob

15th August 2005, 09:21

Because LFS doesnt actually use the spring and damper effects, it uses constant force variation, like GPL. So you can set everything to 0% and you get just the FF that LFS is providing without any driver software induced damping or spring effects.

hagenisse

19th August 2005, 02:45

I've tried a lot of different settings now, but the main problem is still the same... When having to move the wheel fast I have to fight the force feedback. Its damn hard to turn the wheel, which results in me not turning it fast enough and losing control.

Anyway to fix this? Only happens in LFS, all other games I've tried have worked nicely.

Woz

24th August 2005, 02:07

i don't think that's linear tho'

When your wheel lock is equal to or higher than the lock of the cars in the game it is 100% linear.

Gabkicks

6th September 2005, 17:07

I got my new wheel today :nana:

From the old forum (Scawen) :

Driving Force Pro Settings :

Spring Effect Strength : 0 %

Damper Effect Strength : 0 %

Center Springt Strength : 0 %

LFS Settings :

Wheel turn : 900 °

Wheel turn compensation : 0.00 (Otherwise you won´t even get full 900 °)

That´s da bomb. :lovies3d:

Can put up a sticky thread for wheel configs ?

i use same settings for a very long time, except i use 720 mosto f the time to match up with the roadcars. Also.. full 900 just gets tiring after a few hours. My forearms are already big.

MyBoss

7th September 2005, 16:25

I'm lazy, I'm using 360 ;-)

And btw, my car can turn its wheel more than 900 degrees, I'm pretty shure on that, will try it out.

Barbol

14th September 2005, 07:32

Can you post your settings in DFP driver and in LFS options in relation with force feedback?, I don't obtain proper feedback sensation with mine

I have 720º in the driver and in the game with reduction at 0, but I don't know how much put in overall, spring, etc

Your input will be very appreciated, thanks

Mazstermind

27th September 2005, 03:19

Is there anymore info someone can add to help me setup my DFP? I just got it and im having a little trouble getting it right.

Goldfingiz

4th November 2005, 00:15

Just got the DFP as well but getting no force feedback. Any ideas? It works fine with GT4.

Also when I combine the throttle/brake it doesn't work correctly. I'm not seeing the spring/damper/center settings either :(

Goldfingiz

4th November 2005, 01:02

OK I got everything working but now the wheel calibration is horrible. It keeps going off. It works at 200deg. but anything more than that and it goes crazy. Any ideas?

EDIT: Set 720 in the logitech software and 720 in the game, then selected get rid of dead zones. Seems to be good now. Hope this helps anyone if they face the same issue.

EDIT again: Only gripe I have now is that the motor of the wheel is kinda loud. I feel like i'm forcing it or breaking it every time it whines. Is this sound normal?

Gabkicks

4th November 2005, 03:24

btw i've dropped down to 100% ffb ingame from 150 and my arms dont get as tired as fast :D

Goldfingiz

4th November 2005, 18:51

btw i've dropped down to 100% ffb ingame from 150 and my arms dont get as tired as fast :D

LOL call me weak but I have it down to about 75% in game and the wheel setting on 60 rather than 100 :p

Hallen

29th November 2005, 00:57

I use 720° and a comp of 1 in LFS. This allows for exact synchronization with the game and the car.
I can't remember all my FF settings, but they are pretty low. I find 0's in the controller and 100% in LFS is a bit much.
The biggest problem I have is catching the whip back spin after you catch the first slide. Trying to turn the wheel back quickly after you catch a slide and the car is starting to spin back to where it should be is difficult. You really have to fight the FF as it gets very stiff. I usually end up spinning in the opposit direction from the original slide.:shrug:

Shotglass

29th November 2005, 02:33

The biggest problem I have is catching the whip back spin after you catch the first slide. Trying to turn the wheel back quickly after you catch a slide and the car is starting to spin back to where it should be is difficult. You really have to fight the FF as it gets very stiff. I usually end up spinning in the opposit direction from the original slide.:shrug:

try over and over and over again with a fairly soft setup (maybe even as soft as the road going setups) until you get a feel for reading all the small hints that tell you your car is regaining grip
once youve learned how to catch a slide and not countersteer too long on a soft setup you should gradually stiffen the suspension until its time to move to cars with generaly stiffer suspensions
in the end you should be able to catch most of your slides even in an fo8 ... it takes a lot of patience though

Gabkicks

29th November 2005, 07:53

just a technique that could be learned from drifting.:scratchch

Shotglass

29th November 2005, 17:24

just a technique that could be learned from drifting.:scratchch

jup but i wouldnt say that too loud round here

but still the best way to learn how to catch (and hold it for cornering with the lx) a slide is by sliding deliberately

Hallen

29th November 2005, 18:10

Thanks for the tips. But I wasn't commenting on my ability to recognize the whip back. I do see it coming and react, but the FF is very strong at that point for some reason making it difficult to move the wheel fast enough to recover. Going into the slide, the wheel moves easily to correct. It is the counter-correction where the FF gets too strong.

I have no problems with most of the road cars and the LRF cars although the FF is stiff in their case too. It is mostly the race cars that are a major problem for me. I think it is mostly because the whip back on the race cars is so violent. You have to spin the steering wheel quickly to catch the car once it decides to regain grip (which can be a long, long time in the XRR. Correct, correct again, hold it, starts to grip, recover, it spins more, correct, then whip back, around you go in the opposite direction...).

Shotglass

30th November 2005, 03:15

my point was that youll eventually learn to steer straight soon enough so you wont even have to fight a counteraction and therefore wont have to fight the ff at all

Gabkicks

30th November 2005, 05:31

yeah after many laps you learn to anticipate the car's reactions. in real life you would feel it through g-forces but you cant sitting in a chair.:shrug: if you look at onboard video you will see GT500 drivers countersteering very quickly when the car shows very little movement because they can feel the weight of the car shifting. :thumb: Or maybe you've seen schumacher's maniac steering?:eclipsee_

Blowtus

30th November 2005, 12:18

Shotglass

30th November 2005, 12:34

i think the ff is spot on almost all of the time (except the whole bunch of wheel oscillation bugs) all of the problems youre experiencing (including the bugs) are most probably a result of latency in the whole physics-game-drivers-wheel chain so maybe turining down minimum sleep a bit might help a little
so if im judging the situation right the errors are systematic and there really isnt much of anything that could be done to improve ff

oh and hallen have you got damping in the driver settings set to 0 ? maybe the wheel just tries to slow down your fast steering when it shouldnt

Blowtus

30th November 2005, 22:50

Gabkicks

1st December 2005, 20:46

anyone who owns a DFP... You should have Richard Burns Rally installed on you PC by any means nessessary.

new ford focus 01 and 03 have just been released.:thumb:

_--NZ--_[HUN]

2nd December 2005, 09:16

DFP settings:

Overall Effect Strength: 100%
Spring Effect Strength: 0%
Damper Effect Strength: 0%
Enable Centering Spring = OFF
Report Combined Pedals = OFF
Degrees of Rotation = always matches with car i'm driving

In LFS
Wheel turn: always matches with car i'm driving
Wheel turn compensation: 0.00
Force Strength: 100%

tailing

2nd December 2005, 09:21

I've got all the spring and damper settings at 0, but it seems fairly clear that ff is not entirely correct. Wheel oscillations obviously, but you can also wiggle the wheel back and forth when stopped, then put the brake on and try it, for another example...

Personally I wouldn't set spring and damper to 0%, people will tell you they add effects to LFS but I don't believe this is the case. Try the defaults and turn down the strength in LFS.

Blowtus

2nd December 2005, 13:09

had defaults and variations for a long time, only recently saw a post from Scawen suggesting 0%, find it better.

geeman1

2nd December 2005, 13:30

']DFP settings:

Overall Effect Strength: 100%
Spring Effect Strength: 0%
Damper Effect Strength: 0%
Enable Centering Spring = OFF
Report Combined Pedals = OFF
Degrees of Rotation = always matches with car i'm driving

In LFS
Wheel turn: always matches with car i'm driving
Wheel turn compensation: 0.00
Force Strength: 100%
Those are no doubt the best settings. Only set the overall strength to suit your liking.

tailing

3rd December 2005, 06:59

had defaults and variations for a long time, only recently saw a post from Scawen suggesting 0%, find it better.

I've also seen a later quote saying he may be mistaken but whatever works best for you.

thisnameistaken

3rd December 2005, 13:27

While we've got DFP users talking can I ask a quick question:? The paddle shift buttons on the back of the wheel: Are they clicky, hinged-type buttons - can you feel when you've shifted?

I think I might be buying one at the end of next week.

JJ72

3rd December 2005, 15:12

The button is quite a let down actually, I think it's about the same thing on the GT force - not clicky, not hinged type but just "soft plastics".

Phill

4th December 2005, 17:14

i need to know what software i need to make this wheel work with LFS on my PC! :)

mrbogeyman

4th December 2005, 18:04

I agree with Hallen, there are times correcting a slide when the ff is much too strong, it should go very light.
Whether or not people are drift kings is irrelevant to the point that the ff is wrong...

Now, with my old wheel, a thrustmaster, catching a slide was very easy for this reason. The steering would go light and allow you to easily feel where the wheels should be pointing to take you out of the slide.

However, with my MOMO, this isnt the case. I feel as though i have to fight the FF too much to correct as well.

anyway, ive tweaked my settings. will see what happens.

Phill

5th December 2005, 13:59

I had a MSFF wheel some time back, it had the same problem, the FF got very tense.. so.... i turned it off! :)

Haentz

6th December 2005, 11:30

nikimere

6th December 2005, 11:36

Hm, I tried my new DFP with LFS_2_Q yesterday. Unfortunatly the wheel is always locked in the "normal" 180° Position, no matter what value I enter for the "wheel turn". Also, there is no force feedback at all. Do I have to install some driver for the wheel to work correctly or should it just work, if i plug it into the USB port?

Kind regards, Hans
To get the wheel out of 180 degrees mode you have to hold down Select, R3 and click the Shift Up button.
You also need to download the latest drivers from: http://www.wingmanteam.com/latest_software/latest_soft_xp.htm

Haentz

6th December 2005, 19:19

To get the wheel out of 180 degrees mode you have to hold down Select, R3 and click the Shift Up button.
You also need to download the latest drivers from: http://www.wingmanteam.com/latest_software/latest_soft_xp.htm

Thanks for your quick response! :t That solved my problems.

Kind regards, Hans

Leifde

14th December 2005, 17:24

I just got a DFP and I downloaded the drivers but in the profiler I can't set it to 720 degrees, i can only get it to 718 or 721, does this matter? (guessing not but just thought i better ask)

Gabkicks

14th December 2005, 17:30

you can use ur mousewhee to make it go up or down in increments of 1.

thisnameistaken

14th December 2005, 17:43

you can use ur mousewhee to make it go up or down in increments of 1.

I did it by pressing the arrow keys on the keyboard in combination with SHIFT. Can't remember what increment it applied, but the first press went to 720 so I left it there!

Leifde

14th December 2005, 18:57

Ok, thanks :D

Skullman

22nd April 2006, 20:07

Noob question. Is there any way you can bind the paddle shifters and the gear stick at the same time? Cos some cars I prefer to use the stick and other cars the shifter buttons, and it would be nice not to have to keep re-binding the buttons all the time.

Wawotsch

23rd April 2006, 00:23

If you use the Profiler software: assign the corresponding keystrokes to the shifter ('S' and 'X' I think), you can have as many buttons as you want sending the same key.

Gabkicks

23rd April 2006, 03:10

^thats cool i gotta try that. :)

Skullman

23rd April 2006, 03:32

If you use the Profiler software: assign the corresponding keystrokes to the shifter ('S' and 'X' I think), you can have as many buttons as you want sending the same key.

Thanks for that :thumb:

mrfell

7th June 2006, 07:27

VALE 46

7th June 2006, 21:46

Just want to point out that I have the wheel set to 900, even though in game after you turn it 720 it doesnt do any extra rotation ... i can still turn the wheel more in real life but it has no effect in game so theres nothing wrong with it set to 900, just that you dont have any ffb stopping you turning the wheel more.

The only reason i have it on 900 is that i have noticed when you load up other games with roation of say 400, sometimes it doesnt load the profile (for no apparent reason), so you have to quit the game and load it again and hope it works. My wheel in windows will turns 900, so i dont have to worry about the profile not loading properly every time i start up LFS.

mrfell

8th June 2006, 09:28

Having just bought a DFP from a fellow racer, within this forum, i can now see what the fuss is about with this wheel. It feels much more solid than my old tired Saitek R440 and the fact all the buttons can be configured is brilliant. So if you see me racing and i disappear or want to restart for some bizarre reason, then i've probably hit the wrong button!!!:pillepall

Not been online as yet,still learning to drive again. i'm trying to keep mine at 900deg but driving any rear wheel drive cars is HARD work. Trouble is now, trying to catch a slide. How many people here have their DFP at full 900 deg?:scratchch

Matrixi

8th June 2006, 10:17

Just want to point out that I have the wheel set to 900, even though in game after you turn it 720 it doesnt do any extra rotation ... i can still turn the wheel more in real life but it has no effect in game so theres nothing wrong with it set to 900, just that you dont have any ffb stopping you turning the wheel more.
Is your wheel compensation set to 0? The LFS ingame wheel *should* turn even after the 720 degrees when you are in 900 degree mode, unless the wheel compensation is set to something other than 0.

Shotglass

8th June 2006, 17:12

i assume his compensation is at 1 which is the proper way of setting a dfp for any rotation setting >=720

mvp!!!

7th November 2009, 22:03

I have DFGT 900 °. How could I get the wheel to remain in place when I turned 360 degrees? :shrug:

cambos13

29th November 2009, 23:06

How do i make my wheel work it does nothing but says it is detected. Do i have to be a licensed driver?

Whiskey

30th November 2009, 15:22

I can only say your problem has nothing to do with being a demo reacer.

So you must find the solution, and play the game :)

DavidTiger

30th November 2009, 15:29

I have DFGT 900 °. How could I get the wheel to remain in place when I turned 360 degrees? :shrug:

Unplug the power supply, it would disable FFB therefore shouldnt return to center :D
Unless it has a spring return, just remove the spring :shrug:

###
How do i make my wheel work it does nothing but says it is detected. Do i have to be a licensed driver?

Make sure you have the drivers installed correctly..
Does the wheel work in other games?
Is it detected by windows?

dadge

30th November 2009, 19:29

keep the wheel PLUGGED IN and DON'T remove any springs. (DFP has no springs)
go into your control panel in windows. find game controllers. select your wheel and disable center spring effect.
what kind of help are you giving people?