Logitech Pedals, some advice

[Fordman]

HI All,

I have had my pedals since March, and have experienced the spiking problem. Now lucky for me, i brought my pedals in the us ( i live in the UK ) and while i was there, brought some spare pots from DigiKey.

Now a tip. If your pedals are within Warrenty, and you haven't touched them ( done any modding ) contact Logitech. They are really helpfull, and if lucky like me, they send you a complete set of pedals through ( so yes I have a spare set ).

Then for you old pedals, ring DigiKey (http://www.digikey.com/) and ask them, as they do replacement Pots for the Momo Racing, and Momo Force and DFP.

Then do the fixes that suggested here Momo Fix (http://web.axelero.hu/mozso/momo_e5.html) on your old pedals, keeping you new pedals spare.

Your old pedals will work like new. And if after the second time of the fix, replace the pots that you ordered from Digikey.

There is also a question about miss calibration on the pedals. Now this fix. Re-calib the pedals in LFS, but only push to 90%, then release. Then click Calibration Lock.

Also, try to make sure you wheel / pedals is on a seperate USB port to anything else, this also helps.

Also, use the 4.60 drivers, here (http://www.wingmanteam.com/latest_software/latest_soft_main.htm)

Hopefully you should all enjoy the Momo Effect ;)

Regards

Fordie

[Ziploc]

My pedals are chronicly losing all calibration in LFS.(DFP) Ill be racing down the straight and get no throttle and brake. So I have to frantically pump the gas/brake to recalibrate them. Ive even used the 'lock calibration in LFS'.

My second problem is after 1.5 hours play the pedals stop getting their position updated. (Throttle only). So I can floor it and lift off and it will stick floored until a button is presses, brake is touched, or steering is moved. The throttle only has its position updated with brake or steering input.

Needless to say these to faults make league racing a new frustration and Im quickly looking for quick fixes. I know the pot in the throttle is a bit jumpy in a certain spot.

[Fordman]

1st Option - Send them back ASAP.

2nd Option - If out of warrenty, do the pedal fix ( above ) It does work.

Regards

Fordie

[(NOZ)RockyZ]

I know how to fix the mechanical errors of the pedal, I have done it over 10 times but I am expireiencing this really weird problem...

The pedal works perfect for PS2 and is still accurate.

But when used with PC the pedals are still accurate but I HAVE to use them in combined pedals, because my cockpit was not meant for use with DFP pedals and I need the DFP pedals as my clutch it really pissed me off. Now I use the calibration lock and make it so it reconizes a gas pedal push as a full push. I was wondering if anyone else had the same problem, I am going to reinstall the drivers and see if it fixes anything.

[Ziploc]

1st Option - Send them back ASAP.

2nd Option - If out of warrenty, do the pedal fix ( above ) It does work.

Regards

Fordie

Will do. Once Logitech tells me theyre gonna send my pedals Ill exchange my DFP for another at futureshop. Yay for extended warrantees :P

[Fordman]

Now thats just being Greedy

Good on ya :D

[lowgoods]

My experience with the Momo pedals is the following: I tried really a lot of all those fixes proposed all over the internet... in terms of software, hardware, configuration, whatever. Some of them changed nothing, others worked temporarily, however, problems came back after a few month and even worse then (decalibration, spikes, etc.). These pedals simply suffer from intensive usage.

The only fix that really helped finally was to throw them on the rubbish dump and to replace them by a plug-compatible pedal set from ECCI. Very expensive though, but I didn't see another way...

[WGooden]

This is incredible, I must be the most unluckiest person on the planet with pedals. I had my momo for about a year and the pedals obviously were always spiking and at the wrong time. Like right before the start of an OLFSL race which I started up front in. I've done the tape fix which really isn't worth having the pedals go bad in another 3 weeks to do over again, and eventually just not work. I just bought a DFP with the rev B pedals thinking I would be free of this bullshit, but now after three days with the wheel my brake pedals is constantly coming on down a straight. This isn't like a normal spike with the pedals were it seems like you would have your foot on the brake just a little, but the brake is constantly shooting up to about half way, and this is enough to ruin a race that I'm running. It seems more like a connection thing then the pedals, but I don't know I'm sure with my luck its something that is un fixable, and I'm not going to try the tape fix because It won't work. I've checked the wires and the pedal connection cord is fine, so I don't know I Just want to bitch at logitech and tell them how ****ing frustrating this really is. :( :( :( :( :(:(

[Rob76]

Then for you old pedals, ring DigiKey (http://www.digikey.com/) and ask them, as they do replacement Pots for the Momo Racing, and Momo Force and DFP.



You don't happen to know the Digikey part# do you?

[Speed Soro]

Momo pedals has one unique and simple problem: DESIGN.Its project is failed.The problem resides in the bushings, that are made of plastic, that are thin in the superior part, and naturally have a fast waste, generating a certain gap between the axi and the case, that permits that the potetiometer move from its position when the pedal is pressed.The unique way to correct that is 1 between 4 possible things:1 (not too fast, temporary solution, but the rigth thing to do): change your device for a new one in for assurance. Logitech should recall all the MOMOs it sold.2 (fast fix for short life solution): band the axis with many laps of teflon ribbon and reassembly the base.3 (hard-working but life time solution): rebuild new bushing with metal (bronze alluminium).4 (expensive, hard-working but compensatory self satisfaction): make new pedal from the scratch, using 10 K simetrical potentiometers, or the original ones.(the 4rd option is now my next step, once I have passed for the 3 previous)

[Fordman]

You don't happen to know the Digikey part# do you?

I don't Rob, but if you ring them, they are really Helpful.

[SparkyDave]

Some of the momo spiking pedal probs are not allways potentiometer related , I have had the red "momo force" wheel and pedal set from new for about 3 years now and noticed problems with pedal spikes after 3 or 4 months , after checking pots with a multimeter it was clear there was some other cause as the output from the pots was super smooth , and a quick recalibrate in game often fixed the prob .

a few weeks after this prob showed up things turned really bad with pedals switching between seperate and combined axis all on their own sometimes midrace and lots of massive spiking (brk and throttle sometimes both) and no amount of recalibrating / reinstalling helped .

some hours later with the thing spread out all over my dining table I found the problem , the cable that is used to connect the pedals to the wheel and the 25pin connection were giving problems ,the internal cores of the cable are very thin and some had broken inside (o good test was to bend cable very carefully when the fault was present and sometimes it would go) also after many insertions 1 of the pin receptors in the 25 pin socket had pushed itself thru the back making a poor contact .

W Gooden ..1 internal core with a break in it can cause the peds to look combined when there are not .

Anyway after hardwiring my pedals to the wheel with cat5 network cable has completely solved all these issues , its not too hard to do(some soldering involved and i have a wiring diagram I made somewhere Ill try to post it here if/when i find it . its a drastic step but as a last resort worth considering.

SD.

[xapexcivicx]

What should I do about a broken-ish wire? The logitech wires are always the ones that break for me. Which is why my last one stopped working. The pedals didn't break but the wire going to the pedals broke.

[Shotglass]

What should I do about a broken-ish wire? The logitech wires are always the ones that break for me. Which is why my last one stopped working. The pedals didn't break but the wire going to the pedals broke.

if its still within warranty call logitech ... if not open them up and replace the cable

[SparkyDave]

After a clean out ontop of the kitchen cupboards :D I have found some of my handwirtten notes and pinouts , replacing the cable to the pedals is made a bit more complex by the fact the end that plugs into the wheel is a sealed plug and the other ends are hardwired into the pedals and also the usb plug cables are contained within the same cable . I will attempt to write a short guide on how to do the rewiring for the momos and get it up on the T7R website over the next 2 weeks .

www.triple7racing.co.uk (http://www.triple7racing.co.uk)

SD.

[xapexcivicx]

ILU Sparky :)

Will read, and look for the warrenty.

[Shotglass]

replacing the cable to the pedals is made a bit more complex by the fact the end that plugs into the wheel is a sealed plug and the other ends are hardwired into the pedals and also the usb plug cables are contained within the same cable

hmmm sounds like the momo uses a bit of a different system the ffgp and dfp use a standard telephone and sub-d plug on the wheel side and i havent opened the pedals yet but i assume its a 2 minute soldering (and for the ffgp crimping) job to replace the wires

[SparkyDave]

xapexcivicx : http://www.triple7racing.co.uk/ipbforum/index.php?act=ST&f=13&t=389

WIP more to follow ;)

SD.

[Hallen]

There might be something internally wrong with the DFP wheel or there might be some kind of a Windows/USB driver problem.

I have a sticking gas pedal now. It acts like it totally loses calibration. The pedal will act like it is stuck on, and other times it will not come on when pressed.

Here is the kicker, I have ECCI 6000 pedals. There is nothing wrong with the hardware. The pedals are connected to the DFP using the 9-pin dsub connector on the back of the DFP.

If I unplug the dsub, and reconnect it without doing anything else, the pedals start working correctly again. But only for a random period of time.

This happens using other games too, not just LFS.

I can close LFS and use either the Windows Controller panel or DXTweek, and watch the pedal stick and hesitate. It clears as soon as I disconnect the cable and reconnect it.

I am at a loss to explain it. I may have to get the HDUSB kit from ECCI and bypass the wheel completely for the pedals. I need to check continuity of the wires from the pedal to the dsub connector, but they have not been crimped or chewed on so I suspect it is OK.

One of the reasons I got the ECCI pedals is that the DFP pedals were erratic, but mostly with the brake, not the gas.

[AtomAnt]

Does anyone have the part number for the MOMO pots?

[Fordman]

Does anyone have the part number for the MOMO pots?

Momo Racing or Momo Force ( Black or Red One ? )

If you can wait until I get home from work, about 2hrs time, I will post the part numbers here.

Fordie

[Fordman]

Digikey Part No for Replacement Pots for the Momo Racing ( Black One )
963282-KIT

And here is the Page for you:

http://uk.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?KeywordSearch ( IF BASED IN THE UK )
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?KeywordSearch ( IF BASED IN THE US )

[AtomAnt]

Thanks Fordman, I did the Monzo fix-it plan , and i think it's going to be ok for a while. I will still order in some new pots.
Couldn't have fixed this with out all the great support in the LFS World. :)

[detail]

BTW, it's quite easy to replace the pots, so here they are: 296XD103B1N (or CT2265-ND for all the series)

http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T053/1206.pdf

Look at the PDF file. You'll need just to cut the additional "legs" and work with file (an instrument). The same pots for $1.51 each.

[Fordman]

BTW, it's quite easy to replace the pots, so here they are: 296XD103B1N (or CT2265-ND for all the series)

Look at the PDF file. You'll need just to cut the additional "legs" and work with file (an instrument). The same pots for $1.51 each.

Interesting Detail, but looking at the picture, they don't have the little ball on them to hold them in place, like the picture i have attached, so I don't think these would work.

[detail]

I can't say for sure. There is another PDF whith a photo, and they look very similar. As I remember, my pots have 10KOm resistance, the same size and 0.1-0.2W power. That's how I searched.

http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/CTS/Web%20Data/296%20Series.pdf

[edit] As for the ball, well, there is always epoxy available. :) At least, the shaft is the same size, you don't need to cut or glue pedals, nor cut the box.

[Fordman]

Hi all,

Well done the Pedal Maintanence today, and this time I remembered to take some pictures of the BlueTack thing I do with the Pots.

Any Questions, please ask.

[mrodgers]

I like your fix much better than mine, which is just a small piece of paper folded up and wedged i there to take up some slack. Nice job :thumb: .

[Fordman]

I like your fix much better than mine, which is just a small piece of paper folded up and wedged i there to take up some slack. Nice job :thumb: .

Cheers Mr Rodgers. I used to do the paper thing as well, but found that the pots, popped out, usually in a league race. I heard of gluing them, but I also wanted to be able to replace them when they went wrong, thats when I thought of Blue Tack.

[nesrulz]

Anyone try this Logitech BETA software?

[Rumiko]

Anyone try this Logitech BETA software?
I've been told to use this patch by Logitech support, when I contacted them about my pedals. It indeed helps in some cases (pedals loosing calibration), so I recommend using it, since you won't loose your warranty.

It won't help if you get jumpy input from pedals. A software patch can't fix this problem (AFAIK).

[xapexcivicx]

Sparky that pinout doesn't work for me. Lol, DFP pedals only have 7 pin connectors. But I dunno I'm gonna just take it apart today.

[SparkyDave]

Sparky that pinout doesn't work for me. Lol, DFP pedals only have 7 pin connectors. But I dunno I'm gonna just take it apart today.

The pinout is for Momo Force and Racing wheels only AFAIK the DFP has a different / better system .

If you can take some pictures of all the wires (at both ends ) before you begin with rewiring and as you proceed I found writing a colour conversion diagram helps too if your new cable doesn't match the colours of the old, this should help when getting everything back together , and could help others if you fancy posting some of the pics here ;)

Good luck and please let us know how you are getting on.

SD.

[xapexcivicx]

The pinout is for Momo Force and Racing wheels only AFAIK the DFP has a different / better system .

If you can take some pictures of all the wires (at both ends ) before you begin with rewiring and as you proceed I found writing a colour conversion diagram helps too if your new cable doesn't match the colours of the old, this should help when getting everything back together , and could help others if you fancy posting some of the pics here ;)

Good luck and please let us know how you are getting on.

SD.
Well to be honest, I dunno anything about Wires, except with networking. If I cut off the out shell of the wire, I could figure out the wiring, but wher emight I be able to buy another connector?

[tpa]

Interesting Detail, but looking at the picture, they don't have the little ball on them to hold them in place, like the picture i have attached, so I don't think these would work.

I opened my pedals and found out, that this ball was broken off my gas pedal's pot :( The pot itself seems to be working fine. Anyone got an idea how to make the pot hold it's position without the ball?

(Momo Racing)

[Fordman]

I opened my pedals and found out, that this ball was broken off my gas pedal's pot :( The pot itself seems to be working fine. Anyone got an idea how to make the pot hold it's position without the ball?

(Momo Racing)

Have your tried using blue tack as I have described?

[tpa]

No, I used Kleenex but it wouldn't really work out :shy:

I've never heard of Blue Tack, I'll see if I can find a german equivalent.
I wasn't aware that your new pots don't have balls (:D), either. Do you have to do a lot of maintainence with that Blue Tack solution or is a good permanent fix?

Thanks!

[Cropsy]

Recently my pedals started playing up, at first I wasn't getting 100% throttle, being too scared to open them up and fix them myself I looked around for another solution. I downloaded the 4.60 drivers and that sorted it out at first.
Then after awhile it started 'spiking', I didn't mind at first but it seems to be getting worse each day, and caused me to hit someone today, so I decided to open them up and try fixing them...which was a bad idea, I'm useless and these kind of things. Currently they are in pieces on my living room floor, I have an idea where everything goes but some things aren't on right (I think) and one piece fell out when I opened it and I have no idea where it goes...
So, now I need to buy some new pedals. Where can I get them from?

Ironically, all my problems started when I arranged to give my old wheel to someone. :banghead:

[mrodgers]

Cropsy, buddy :D . You talking DFP or Momo, I forget what you have. There's a current thread about fixing the DFP pedals, check that out. I didn't follow much, but there is a link to some site to help. If Momo you have, then go to http://web.axelero.hu/mozso/momo_m.html and see if any of that will give you any help. There's some good pictures in there. Also, you can follow the fixes and get them working better than new. I did them and haven't had a problem for months.

Take care, good seeing you in the server last night. Been a while :D .

[Cropsy]

They're black MOMO. I did have a look at that guide, but still no joy.
I contacted Fordman last night about it and he kindly offered to fix them for me. :)

[Fordman]

They're black MOMO. I did have a look at that guide, but still no joy.
I contacted Fordman last night about it and he kindly offered to fix them for me. :)

:shhh: :D

[Cropsy]

Just giving your business a head start ;)

[DGBVIPER]

Ironically, all my problems started when I arranged to give my old wheel to someone. :banghead:
Sorry...:x
Appreciate it tho :thumb:

[mrodgers]

So Cropsy, you live close to Fern Bay, where Fordman says he is located? :D If so, have you ever driven on the real Fern Bay? Or you Fordman :D ?

I would have offered to help you out, but it's a bit long of a drive for me.

[Fordman]

So Cropsy, you live close to Fern Bay, where Fordman says he is located? :D If so, have you ever driven on the real Fern Bay? Or you Fordman :D ?

I would have offered to help you out, but it's a bit long of a drive for me.

Ha Ha, I just live the other side of the Country to him, so parcel force will reach me :D

[JohnPenn]

I blame the whole mess on DGBVIPER:D
I just want to say that I did not encourage Cropsy to open the pedals up
and i,m sticking with that statement.

Cropsy hope you get the pedals back from Fordman soon ( nice one Fordman), and who says we have no sense of community .

John

[Fordman]

Well here is the news you have ALL been waiting for.

Cropsy's pedals are FIXED. Attached is a replay of me using the pedals. No spiking, smooth control, and all calibrated.

I will be in touch

Fordman

[JohnPenn]

Nice work Fordman:)
I have a feeling you have made someone's day.

Charge him like a Bull:tilt:


John

[Cropsy]

Damn right :D After a horrible day in work that really change my mood, he gave me a fair price too.
Roll on monday.

I can see it now, get my pedals back and my grapics card packs in.

[Cropsy]

I got my pedals back this morning, and just had a few laps around Ashton and they seem to be working fine, they actually feel better than they did when they were brand new. Good job Shaun, thanks again. :thumb:

[Fordman]

I got my pedals back this morning, and just had a few laps around Ashton and they seem to be working fine, they actually feel better than they did when they were brand new. Good job Shaun, thanks again. :thumb:

Your Very Welcome Cropsy. :D

Fordman
Logitech Expert :smileypul

[stirallyracer]

anybody know if it's possible to use two sets of DFP pedals with 1 wheel? i can't figure out what this connector is...

[[PTG]Chef_uk]

Sorry for bringing up an old thread but im browsing whilst the game downloads.

I have absolutely no idea what your going on about, will i find this out once i start playing or after a while from having the wheel?

Installing now :) see you on the track (or in my case gravel, grass, wall etc)

Edit, Momo Racing is my wheel

[Mauni]

It's a issue with logitech's pedals. There are two potentiometers inside pedals which detect throttle and brake pedal's movements. They may move a little bit sideways causing miscalibration and gas/brake being whole time little on or not reaching their maximum's. Something like that, sure there is someone correcting me in a half an hour, but you got the point, right? :nod:
I guess you have a new wheel. In that case pedals won't probably cause any problems, because they should be newer revision, in which these issues have been fixed from what I've heard.

[[PTG]Chef_uk]

righto, got ya thanks :)

Dont know if you can tell what version mine will be but heres the sticker info underneath

P/N 863203-1000
PID YE5462

[Fordman]

Chef_uk']righto, got ya thanks :)

Dont know if you can tell what version mine will be but heres the sticker info underneath

P/N 863203-1000
PID YE5462

Sorry I am never that good on Part Numbers, but I think all MOMO pedals use the Plastic Pots. As well as my fix ( taken from another site ) with regards to the taping and then my added Blue Tack trick ( which works a damn treat ) there is another guide that I will add shortly. This will consist of actually taking the Pot apart and cleaning it and re-gluing it, as this will fix your problems, but only can be done once. After that, its new pots I am afriad.

I have been contacted, and the replacement Pots do work, and work like brand new ( I brought some spares when in the US last year ) so I can personally vouche for Digikey as well as P1lot, as I got him some also :)

Regards

Fordie
Logitech Expert :D

[KeMoT]

All these posts make me scared, I just bought DFP ( about month ago ) and now I am affraid it will brake soon :(

[Scoop]

Same here i just ordered my DFP and now all of this is making me scared, tho i have to say my team mate has done over 40.000km in lfs with the DFP in about 1 year and he hasn't got a single probleme, so KeMoT there's still hope :nod:

[KeMoT]

I know there is.
I had old MOMO force ( red one ) before DFP and I had no any problems with it in spite it had its age.
Let's pray for the same :nod:

[keiran]

Well my pedals went and as far as I could understand from the nice man at logitech he is sending me a whole new wheel :o Problem is I couldn't understand a word he was saying so when he started reading out the address to send the wires back to I ended up with this :o

Logitech Europe
SARAELFA
Customer Service
The RMA number
Mpulin du choc
CH112 2 Rome Oscar Mike Alpha November el sur movges
Switzerland

Which looks all wrong :p Hopefully they will include the address but it seems such a waste to chop the wires off my current wheel and pedals :(

Anyone got the address, I was going around in circles trying to get the address out of the guy. English wasn't his native language and he kept reading it out like Lemon Orange Internet when he meant L for Lemon etc so he just confused the hell out of me.

Keiran

[justhim]

I have a problem with my logitech wingman forrmula....
When I driwe for some time the gas pedal is shown as presed even when is fully released...It causes me a lot of trouble when i'm driving...and sometimes i can't press the break pedal (i can presse it but it doesn't show it fully presed)

Can you please help me

I'm from slovenia and i don't know where to get spare parts

[justhim]

Can realy no-one help me ????

[Fordman]

All I can suggest ( don't have this wheel ) is that you disconnect it from the PC, and then re-connect it, and recalibrate it in Windows and in LFS. Once you have calibrated it in LFS, click on Calibration lock and try this.

[justhim]

I deconnect it and removed callybration several times but it worked only for some secounds...then it was the same

[Dopey]

Anyone know of a site that I could just buy new pedals for my momo racing wheel (black). I had the spiking issue and took it appart and put it back together and now they don't respond. I think I just want to cut my losses and just buy new pedal's.

[Fordman]

Anyone know of a site that I could just buy new pedals for my momo racing wheel (black). I had the spiking issue and took it appart and put it back together and now they don't respond. I think I just want to cut my losses and just buy new pedal's.

You will need to contact Logi for that. They are usually pretty good.

@justhim Try downloading the latest drivers from http://www.wingmanteam.com/latest_software/latest_soft_main.htm as this does seems to match the "Loss of Calibration Effect" problem that some Wheels and pedals Suffer.

[rabidmaddog]

I have the 90% throttle issue with my Momo pedals. I recently took the pedals apart to take a look at the problem. What a bunch of plastic crap. Absolute junk. The cheap plastic potentiometers are loosely stuck into little plastic slots. The pedal "bearings" are plastic on plastic with a bunch of grease shot in to collect prodigious amounts of dust and hair. What a mess. I just became aware of my throttle limitation problem, but I suspect it's been present for a long time, perhaps from the beginning.

I am considering the ECCI pedals but I am waiting for reviews of the new Logitech system in October. If that is also junk, I will simply go with an entire ECCI system. Force feedback is certainly nice, but not with the ultra notchy feel of the Momo. I have it set so low to allow smooth steering I might as well not even have FF turned on!

Hopefully the new Logitech wheel and pedals will be done right. We shall see.

[crabjim]

I bought a japan version DFP more 2 months ago, i was having spike problem with the brake. last week, I disassemble the pedal and adjusted the pots...now, it sees okay already. no spiking problem till now.

[CrazyBrit]

I have had my Logitech formula force GP wheel and pedal set since they first came out. And they are still going!!! Like the day i bought them....almost. A little up and down movement from the wheel, but that's about it!! I have gone through many sims from lfs, TOCA series, NFS just to mention a few.

Am i just very lucky?? I have no idea, but they are used on average 4 hrs a day every day!!

[Gunn]

Logitech don't sell components like pedals seperately, but they will replace them if they are faulty.

[Gentlefoot]

I've got a logitech MOMO Black. I've had it for about 10 months and have done over 20k in LFS mileage.

On Saturday I began to get a problem with the brake pedal. This problem had been occurring occasionally over the last few months but had just got much worse. The first time it happened I didn't even notice until someone pointed out the my brake lights were on all the time. It seems the brakes were coming on occassionally even though I wasn't using them. Now the problem was happening pretty much at least once every lap!

So, I decided to investigate. I took the pedals unit apart and could see the potentiometers on the end of the pedal axles. I plugged the unit in and moved the pedals. I found that the runners that the axles, or the axles themselves had warn slightly. This was allowing a bit of movement forward and back of the axles. I noticed that this movement can be caused by putting pressure on the sides of the pedals. This was causing the brake pedal potentiometer to move slightly giving a small signal that the brakes were on.

I also noticed that as I moved the potentiometers, a signal was produced. So, I moved the potentiometers as far back (so they produced no signal) as possible, put the pedal unit back together and bish-bash-bosh, job done, pedals fixed. No new potentiometers needed.

Just thought I'd share this as I'm sure others will have had the same problem.

[Gunn]

The pedal "axles" are tapered on one end allowing movement, it's an odd design but they must have had a reason for it.
With the movement you can actually push the pedal too far and the potentiometer slips out of its little pocket. This makes it operate ineffectively and often you get spiking near the top of the range or you don't get the full range at all. The autocalibrating nature of the device can then report a false centre and you might end up with a little brake always on, or a little bit of throttle.

Although your operation has fixed your problem, I fear it is only a temporary respite. A more permanent fix requires some method of stopping the pots from lifting out of their pocket/receptacle. There's a dozen ways of doing that, but it is important not to glue the pot or attach it too solidy or it will eventually snap.
Perhaps the best solution I've heard is to cut small cubes of foam rubber (you could use a new kitchen sponge or something inexpensive like that) that fit snug inside the pot's little pocket. Stick the pot into the foam cube so that it can hardly move, a little movement is ok, we are just trying to keep it from lifting out. If you've done the job right it should last a long time.
You could address the axle problem while you are there, clean off the lubricant and use thick tape to reduce the amount of play around the pedal shaft (axle).
If you want to service the pots spray (blast them!) with contact cleaner only (available from your electronics store), don't use automotive or engineering degreasers, sprays or lubricants.

My first set of Momo pedals completed almost 50 000 LFS miles, not to mention other games that I used them in. But many repair jobs were required. :p

[Fordman]

I've got a logitech MOMO Black. I've had it for about 10 months and have done over 20k in LFS mileage.

On Saturday I began to get a problem with the brake pedal. This problem had been occurring occasionally over the last few months but had just got much worse. The first time it happened I didn't even notice until someone pointed out the my brake lights were on all the time. It seems the brakes were coming on occassionally even though I wasn't using them. Now the problem was happening pretty much at least once every lap!

So, I decided to investigate. I took the pedals unit apart and could see the potentiometers on the end of the pedal axles. I plugged the unit in and moved the pedals. I found that the runners that the axles, or the axles themselves had warn slightly. This was allowing a bit of movement forward and back of the axles. I noticed that this movement can be caused by putting pressure on the sides of the pedals. This was causing the brake pedal potentiometer to move slightly giving a small signal that the brakes were on.

I also noticed that as I moved the potentiometers, a signal was produced. So, I moved the potentiometers as far back (so they produced no signal) as possible, put the pedal unit back together and bish-bash-bosh, job done, pedals fixed. No new potentiometers needed.

Just thought I'd share this as I'm sure others will have had the same problem.

hay Gentlefoot, you seen my fix using bluetack? It works a treat, and still going strong, almost 1yr now, no repairs.

Here's the link. http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?p=49757#post49757

[Gentlefoot]

Well, I've only done about 300 laps since I fixed the problem but it hasn't re-occurred.

I thought about wrapping some tape round the pedal axles as Gunn suggested but I thought I'd try without first. OK so far.

As for the sponge to help locate the potentiometer - what a cool idea - might try that if the problem re-occurs.

Hey Fordy, didn't see your blu-tac fix but I guess it's the same as the sponge thing. Will bare in mind for future breakages.

[Fordman]

Well, I've only done about 300 laps since I fixed the problem but it hasn't re-occurred.

I thought about wrapping some tape round the pedal axles as Gunn suggested but I thought I'd try without first. OK so far.

As for the sponge to help locate the potentiometer - what a cool idea - might try that if the problem re-occurs.

Hey Fordy, didn't see your blu-tac fix but I guess it's the same as the sponge thing. Will bare in mind for future breakages.

The only problem I can see with the sponge fix, is that because the sponge is under pressure, it might "spring" out. With the Blue Tack, you make it sticky, and it doesn't move, if you put enough in there.

[Gunn]

In one of my sets I currently use a few small pieces of masking tape folded around the peg on the bottom of the pot. I pushed it in gently and it's been good ever since, but I know the tape will degrade eventually.

[Rg7621]

Hey,

I've been having the gas/brake problem on my DFP PRO for a while now. I actually haven't used my wheel in about a month, because it's too frustrating to do a race when the pedals go whacky within a few laps.

I bought the DFP back in May at CompUSA and got the 2-year replacement plan. I just recently went back to that store and saw that they only carry one wheel now (something cheap like madcatz or something), so if I did go back to exchange this, I don't think they would have a DFP PRO for me. My guess is they would only be able to give me store credit. Even if they do the exchange, I only get one exchange per replacement plan, so if the new pedals were to break on me a few months down the line, I would have to pay for another replacement plan. Now, if they were to carry the G25 sometime soon, I could pay the difference and upgrade to that, but I seriously doubt they would ever carry that product.

If I contact Logitech, are they still sending out new pedals or complete wheel w/pedals? Do you actually have to cut the wires off and mail them to logitech before they send new hardware?

Right now there is no reason for me to open up the pedals, because I'm still under warranty, so I just need to figure out what I should do. Any advice?

[Gunn]

If I contact Logitech, are they still sending out new pedals or complete wheel w/pedals? Do you actually have to cut the wires off and mail them to logitech before they send new hardware?

Logitech will send new pedals and they will be the newer revision2 pedals for the DFP which don't suffer from the same problems. Most of the time they don't ask for the old pedals or anything to be cut off. If your wheel is faulty they will replace the entire unit. If you are under warranty, certainly approach Logitech.

[Rg7621]

Thanks,

I called them today and they will take care of it. It turns out my wheel/pedals are about 3 years old, but I just bought it from the store 5 months ago. My manual say REV B., but hopefully I will get the newest set when they send it.

[silver bullet]

I discovered yesterday that I have a problem with my MOMO black pedals (surprise!).

I that the red brake bar on the bottom right corner does not go down all the way, and I can see a little red "stub" which means that the brakes are applied all the time altho very lightly. I examined the outside of the unit, and it seems that I've been kicking the pedal a little bit too hard. The junky plastic pedal does not go back all the way after being depressed. When I look at the Controllers menu in the Windows Control Panel, my brake axis never goes to zero, there is always some brake being applied.

What can i do about it??? I dont want to race with the brake "on" all the time.

[Gentlefoot]

I've got a logitech MOMO Black. I've had it for about 10 months and have done over 20k in LFS mileage.

On Saturday I began to get a problem with the brake pedal. This problem had been occurring occasionally over the last few months but had just got much worse. The first time it happened I didn't even notice until someone pointed out the my brake lights were on all the time. It seems the brakes were coming on occassionally even though I wasn't using them. Now the problem was happening pretty much at least once every lap!

So, I decided to investigate. I took the pedals unit apart and could see the potentiometers on the end of the pedal axles. I plugged the unit in and moved the pedals. I found that the runners that the axles, or the axles themselves had warn slightly. This was allowing a bit of movement forward and back of the axles. I noticed that this movement can be caused by putting pressure on the sides of the pedals. This was causing the brake pedal potentiometer to move slightly giving a small signal that the brakes were on.

I also noticed that as I moved the potentiometers, a signal was produced. So, I moved the potentiometers as far back (so they produced no signal) as possible, put the pedal unit back together and bish-bash-bosh, job done, pedals fixed. No new potentiometers needed.

Just thought I'd share this as I'm sure others will have had the same problem.


Same problem I had. Here's the fix. (I quoted myself from earlier in this thread.) Problem still hasn't re-occurred.

[skstibi]

This is really odd reading this stuff. My MOMO pedals had the problems for a long time. every thime I had the problem, I would un-plug and plug the pedlas back in and it was fixed for a while.
after about 15,000 races of wear they were fixed. now about 50,000 races they are absolutly perfect. The gas pedal is a bit loose now and it lost most of its texture but that is all. Heh, and after all that time I JUST found out that the pedals have that carpet grip device (which works great). :pillepall :shrug: :D
I have a brand new set of pedals that have never been out of the bag. I don't even know if they work.

[Jakg]

What wheel is it?

[Kurdt]

I have problem with my Logitech Wingman Formula Gp such as justhim.
__________________________________________________ _______________
I have a problem with my logitech wingman forrmula....
When I driwe for some time the gas pedal is shown as presed even when is fully released...It causes me a lot of trouble when i'm driving...and sometimes i can't press the break pedal (i can presse it but it doesn't show it fully presed)

Can you please help me

I'm from slovenia and i don't know where to get spare parts
__________________________________________________ _______________
Can anybody help?
P.S. gas is allways open, but i don't touch pedals =(
23000

[mrodgers]

I have problem with my Logitech Wingman Formula Gp such as justhim.
__________________________________________________ _______________
I have a problem with my logitech wingman forrmula....
When I driwe for some time the gas pedal is shown as presed even when is fully released...It causes me a lot of trouble when i'm driving...and sometimes i can't press the break pedal (i can presse it but it doesn't show it fully presed)

Can you please help me

I'm from slovenia and i don't know where to get spare parts
__________________________________________________ _______________
Can anybody help?
P.S. gas is allways open, but i don't touch pedals =(
23000
Read this webpage. You're problem is very easy to fix...
http://web.axelero.hu/mozso/momo_m.html

Not to mention, before posting a problem with your pedals in a thread made for Logitech pedals that is 3 pages and 86 posts long, read through the thread. Covered many many times.

[Kurdt]

Yeap i know> but don't have time! Thx 4 help man, pedals work nice!

[Qvarnis]

Is it in LFS or my pedals?

My wheel/pedal set is Wingman Formula Force GP, after using th pedals for... lets say, around an hour, it cuts throttle randomly.

I mean, when I push it pedal to the metal, it just suddenly cuts it, then it works again, and cuts again. Don`t really know how to describe it, but it`s comparable to fuelcutting.

I still can drive around, but it`s just freaking annoying when you`re trying to drift as hard as you can and it just cuts your throttle randomly.

[CrazyBrit]

To me it sounds like your pedals. I have the formula force GP wheel and pedals and have had nothing like this happen before, and i've played for hours with no problems.
Have you tried a different game? Does it do it on that game?

[Qvarnis]

To me it sounds like your pedals. I have the formula force GP wheel and pedals and have had nothing like this happen before, and i've played for hours with no problems.
Have you tried a different game? Does it do it on that game?

The set is actually around 5 years old, or even older. Haven`t tried it in any other game, becouse I don`t have any. :D and I wouldn`t mind going 400 kilometers to my brother to see if the same happens in GT3...

How risky it is to open the pedals and clean up the pots and stuff? I mean, if there`s even slightest possibility to lose my pedals, wouldn`t mind doing that.

[stevisiov90]

I am having problems with my G25 pedals like many other people in this thread, It is not spiking randomly, I just cannot get it to accept that I a pressing the accelerator or brake at all. when I pressed combined throttle both went on full without me pressing them, they don't appear to be worn, the game just isn't recognising them, so I can't assign them to brake or accelarate in the configurattion menu.

I have tried re-installing it using a driver I downloaded off the internet (I lost my disk). But when I was callibrating them on the driver, it recognised them perfectly.

Does anybody know a way to fix the problem, Am I doing something wrong in the configuration?

1st post:thumb:

[kingfishersa]

Cheers Mr Rodgers. I used to do the paper thing as well, but found that the pots, popped out, usually in a league race. I heard of gluing them, but I also wanted to be able to replace them when they went wrong, thats when I thought of Blue Tack.

If you spot glue them just above the ball(that pops into the holder) then they remain seated superbly and yet are easy just to pop off. Also I use Tamiya MOLYBDENUM grease. Its mainly used for gears on motors and stuff but it keeps it's consistancy and coverage and works well for the pedals!

[Viper93]

I have a buddy at work who bought a set of pedals off Ebay here in the UK for a tenner with the pedals spiking. I just want to clarify the troubleshoot process.

1. Remove casing
2. Check for any loose contacts
3. Check for cracked leads.
4. If no fault found in wiring the pots are probably bad, replace as necessary with new ones that can be found on www.digikey.com (http://www.digikey.com/). Use part number found on back panel and/or located on Pot itself. (296XD103B1N (or CT2265-ND for all the series)) Pot can either be glued down or stuck down with blue tack.
5. Once soldered back in place download the latest drivers from Logitech. http://www.logitech.com/index.cfm/support_downloads/downloads/&cl=gb,en?selectedcrid=411&selectedcid=320 (http://www.logitech.com/index.cfm/support_downloads/downloads/&cl=gb,en?selectedcrid=411&selectedcid=320) (Click on your pedals in the drop down menu)

Replace cover and test =)

[mrodgers]

What do you mean by spikey? It can be taken two different ways.

1. Press the pedal and the throttle is not smooth. You can see the throttle move, drop down, back up, kind of like that?

2. You have full throttle, but in using, the throttle reduces down to 80-90% with full pedal?

Point 1, I would say either some electrical contact cleaner or new pot as you've posted. I have this currently. It spikes sometimes and sometimes it doesn't.

Point 2, it spikes because of play in the pedal axis mount. You press full throttle, but the pedal rocks side to side a bit. This causes the autocalibration to spike and reset top range higher than your pedal normally goes. Thus, you now only see 80-90% throttle with full pedal deflection. I had this very early with my MOMO. It is from the tapered pedal axis in it's mount and is fixed very easy by wrapping a piece of black electrical insulating tape around both sides of the pedal axis. Once I did this, I never had this problem again for years.

Edit: Nice price from Digi-Key. $1.50 for the pot, $6 handling charge, and $8.65 for shipping to me! They could just put it in an envelope and ship it through the mail for $0.42 or whatever it costs for our snail-mail now. I'd be nearly halfway to the cost of a DFP if I could find them post-Christmas again on clearance....

[[RF]-art555]

Didn't want to start a new thread so I guess thats quite a good place to post.

I have some small but annoying problems with my pedals (Old Formula GP pedal set used as a clutch pedal). They had a hard life and now pedal has a working range from about 60-75% of range(when in Combined mode, in separete - the axis is read upside down and still has a small working range left). I tuned it with DXTweak so it works ok, but there is one thing that bothers me. When I start up PC, the pedal is kind of frozen in game controllers... Using DXTweak I can still see that the input from the pedal is still read, but its not shown on the end (read - not responding).

The thing that fixes it is re-plugging the pedals. And since the USB plug is on the back of the PC deep under the table (the USB plug on the front don't "fix" the problem somehow) its quite a hard operation. Is there any way to stop myself from hitting the desk with my head on my way back from out of the table everytime I wanna play? :D

[[RF]-art555]

Ok, it got worse, now the pedal doesn't respond in combined mode whatever I do. It does works in separete mode, but the axis is upside down (fixable in LFS, not a big problem) and the axis spikes quite badly.

Any help?

[Renoff]

well i have a problem. i got the pedals working properly but they work in the opposite direction. I have full throttle when i dont touch the pedals and when i push them down i have no throttle at all
HHHHHHEEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLPPPPPPPPPPPP

[Tisza]

Do the pedal problems occur for DFP or MOMO only?

[Renoff]

im talkin about my g25

[Matt0snap]

Click INVERSE under axis..... ta da....all fixed.

the button SHOULD be beside all the different axis that are avaliable (x, y, z, rz)...

[Renoff]

thanks matt:) now i have to figure out my csr problem

[Matt0snap]

CSR...
1... follow these steps: http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?p=219905#post219905


EDIT: OOOOO, 201st Post :razz:

[Tisza]

I meant pedal problems are general for all logitech wheels(except g25, thinkin of dfp & MOMO) or is it just MOMO specific? :)

[[RF]-art555]

I meant pedal problems are general for all logitech wheels(except g25, thinkin of dfp & MOMO) or is it just MOMO specific? :)

Both Momo and DFP as the have quite the same pedals

[Tisza]

That's not really nice... so let's say in about 1 or 2 years I shall expect that my pedals gonna brake or smthg? :(

[[RF]-art555]

That's not really nice... so let's say in about 1 or 2 years I shall expect that my pedals gonna brake or smthg? :(

no, that doesn't happen to every single pedal set. And there was a made a fix in those pedals, so if you have Rev B wheel you shouldn't worry.

[Tisza]

What does Rev B wheel mean? I bought my DFP 2 weeks ago, at a store, its a brand new one.

[[RF]-art555]

What does Rev B wheel mean? I bought my DFP 2 weeks ago, at a store, its a brand new one.

Rev B is a version of the wheel. Rev A had problems, but considering you've just bought it brand new it should be Rev B

[dontsimon]

That's not really nice... so let's say in about 1 or 2 years I shall expect that my pedals gonna brake or smthg? :(

Those pedals might struggle to last two years of heavy use anyway, even the later revision. The pots on mine started spiking after six months.

The G25 pedals are substantially better, both in build and feel. Worth the extra, if for nothing else than to avoid the headaches those old Logi pedals cause. I had to open mine and clean the pots every few weeks. Got boring fast.

[bmwe30powerm3]

HI All,

I have had my pedals since March, and have experienced the spiking problem.
Fordie

Can you please explain exatcly what spiking is? Is it a standart issue that is going to happen?

[SpikeyMarcoD]

I've got a logitech MOMO Black. I've had it for about 10 months and have done over 20k in LFS mileage.

On Saturday I began to get a problem with the brake pedal. This problem had been occurring occasionally over the last few months but had just got much worse. The first time it happened I didn't even notice until someone pointed out the my brake lights were on all the time. It seems the brakes were coming on occassionally even though I wasn't using them. Now the problem was happening pretty much at least once every lap!

So, I decided to investigate. I took the pedals unit apart and could see the potentiometers on the end of the pedal axles. I plugged the unit in and moved the pedals. I found that the runners that the axles, or the axles themselves had warn slightly. This was allowing a bit of movement forward and back of the axles. I noticed that this movement can be caused by putting pressure on the sides of the pedals. This was causing the brake pedal potentiometer to move slightly giving a small signal that the brakes were on.

I also noticed that as I moved the potentiometers, a signal was produced. So, I moved the potentiometers as far back (so they produced no signal) as possible, put the pedal unit back together and bish-bash-bosh, job done, pedals fixed. No new potentiometers needed.

Just thought I'd share this as I'm sure others will have had the same problem.



-art555;721068']Rev B is a version of the wheel. Rev A had problems, but considering you've just bought it brand new it should be Rev B


I experienced the brake on automatically flaw on my Rev B and brought it back under warranty (1.3 years old) and i got a Rev C now.

Anybody got experiences with durability on Rev C.?

[Gnomie]

I experienced the brake on automatically flaw on my Rev B and brought it back under warranty (1.3 years old) and i got a Rev C now.

Anybody got experiences with durability on Rev C.?

Where does it say if it's Rev C or not?

[[RF]-art555]

Where does it say if it's Rev C or not?

ON the pack with CD drivers usually:shrug:

[SpikeyMarcoD]

Yep on the CD plastic packaging

[Gnomie]

Ah OK, I'll check that then. Just have to find it first. ;)

[cobra193]

Is it in LFS or my pedals?

My wheel/pedal set is Wingman Formula Force GP, after using th pedals for... lets say, around an hour, it cuts throttle randomly.

I mean, when I push it pedal to the metal, it just suddenly cuts it, then it works again, and cuts again. Don`t really know how to describe it, but it`s comparable to fuelcutting.

I still can drive around, but it`s just freaking annoying when you`re trying to drift as hard as you can and it just cuts your throttle randomly.


I have the same problem. I had a DFP for about 2 years and it started doing this a few weeks ago. I tried new drivers and it still happens. I just received brand new DFP and yes, it STILL Happens!!! I have tried the wheel in GTR2, rFactor and N2k3 for a few hours and the pedals are fine, as soon as I go into LFS, the throttle starts cutting again. Usually once or twice per race. I don't think I can go an entire 10 lap race without the throttle cutting at least once.

I don't normally like to blame once piece of software but I don't know what other conclusion you can come to.. It really seems to have something to do with LFS...

[Necare]

Hello,

I'm wondering if any company sells those wires (from pedals to wheel). The other end is the 7-pin and the others are inside the pedals, those white thingies. :P

I need a new wire or a new set of pedals, because my dog has cut the wire a couple of times and now its impossible to fix it.

So if you know any company or a store who sells that kind of wires and electronic stuff please reply to this message. Closer to Finland, the better, exept if they do deliver to other countries. :)

I hope you understood what I'm trying to ask. Sorry for messy english.

[Danke]

I have the same problem. I had a DFP for about 2 years and it started doing this a few weeks ago. I tried new drivers and it still happens. I just received brand new DFP and yes, it STILL Happens!!! I have tried the wheel in GTR2, rFactor and N2k3 for a few hours and the pedals are fine, as soon as I go into LFS, the throttle starts cutting again. Usually once or twice per race. I don't think I can go an entire 10 lap race without the throttle cutting at least once.

I don't normally like to blame once piece of software but I don't know what other conclusion you can come to.. It really seems to have something to do with LFS...

Another thing to check is how many USB devices you have hooked to your PC. I had a spiking throttle, plus sometimes my gas or brake would just completely ignore the fact that I stepped on them. One thing I would up doing was unplugging a USB HD tuner while I was racing. I haven't had problems since.

I'm not sure if it's a question of the USB power being split too many ways, or if my PC isn't fast enough to keep up with polling the USB ports for input, or something else, but it works now.

[blondais]

I am having problems with my G25 pedals like many other people in this thread, It is not spiking randomly, I just cannot get it to accept that I a pressing the accelerator or brake at all. when I pressed combined throttle both went on full without me pressing them, they don't appear to be worn, the game just isn't recognising them, so I can't assign them to brake or accelarate in the configurattion menu.

I have tried re-installing it using a driver I downloaded off the internet (I lost my disk). But when I was callibrating them on the driver, it recognised them perfectly.

Does anybody know a way to fix the problem, Am I doing something wrong in the configuration?

1st post:thumb:

Hello

Few days ago bought G25 and I have got the same problem. In other games pedals are working, but LFS does not recognise them

What do I have to do??

thanks in advance

[blondais]

Hello

Few days ago bought G25 and I have got the same problem. In other games pedals are working, but LFS does not recognise them

What do I have to do??

thanks in advance

Help :)

any1? :( what can be wrong?

[Whiskey]

Go to Axes and invert the pedals

[blondais]

Go to Axes and invert the pedals
doesn't help :D
tried to change invert axes in profiler. tried in lfs. pedals are working.

LFS is z28. maybe i need other version. And profiler ir 5.08

Here are print screens:

[scimitarkrieg]

try change trottel/break from separate to combined.
the virtual slider from the left is moving wwhen you press/unpress the pedal?

go in control panel-> game controller and see if the pedal works

[Humbleridderen]

I also has another problem with G25 pedals.

My throttle pedal has problems when I push the pedal to a maximum. I can see on the virtual bars, which goes up and down in the game (down to the right) It only produces something like 90% - 100% throttle. It´s vibrating in the top. It means that I´m in races loses something like 1- 1,5 seconds per lap and it is a big problem of course.

I have tried many times to open the pedal cabinet and clean for dust and hairs, but it keeps on having the same problem.

The same problem, just the other way aroung is with my brake pedal. It keeps on braking 10% even I don´t push the pedal. If i hit the pedal suddenly, it can go away untill another time I have to brake. This happens on every lap I do on a race track.

Calibrating hasn´t solved the problem too, so I have begun to use my clutch pedal instead, but it is not good as a brake pedal.

Anyone has a solution or know, what those problems are?

The pedals are 2 years old

[Gnomie]

Take a look here (http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?p=1289929#post1289929) for a way of fixing this. Sounds like there's some dirt inside your POT mechanism. If the warranty has expired, you have nothing to loose by opening them up. Just be careful not to snap any of the thin wires! Look at the instructions posted here (http://www.nixim.com/cart/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=3) to figure out how to open up your pedals.

Good luck!

[Humbleridderen]

Thx. I will take a look at it :)

[fpveater9]

Hey guys i have a logitech driving force pro and i was wondering if u have to have the power supply or the pedals to play lfs. The lights on the wheels one is soild and one is flashing i was just wonding if u had to match the axis or anything?

Can someone please help me Thanks

[Ki-Men]

I have one , not constant, problem with Momo force pedals.
When I draiving lfs sometimes I losing on my speed or slower the acceleration and dont have maximum speed .
I noticed in LFS that the brake pedals are activated (like when I breaking but one milimetar high spike it is wery hard to notice sometimes ) but I do not pressed the brake pedal.
Can someone help me with this?

[Silverracer]

When I draiving lfs sometimes I losing on my speed or slower the acceleration and dont have maximum speed .
I noticed in LFS that the brake pedals are activated (like when I breaking but one milimetar high spike it is wery hard to notice sometimes ) but I do not pressed the brake pedal.

I've got the exact same thing happening on my G25 pedals. It got worse over a few weeks. Thankfully mine was within waranty...

A home fix for the MOMO:
http://web.axelero.hu/mozso/momo_e5.html

[Ki-Men]

well done , silverracer , I chek with tweak how the pedals are moving and see that how the throtle messing up my break pedal and break pedal messing with the throtle , anyway , I open it and clean up the inside part (with not tapeing) fixed up ewerithing in her place and close that, now how I see that no spiking anywhere on the tweek program.
Thank you once again .