Filter out button jitter (a-la analog smooth)

[avih]

Hi.
I have a MS Sidewinder FF USB wheel, and lately the left paddle started to occasionally produce 2 clicks instead of one when i use it. Since it's assigned to downshift, it has quite a devestating effect when i downshift to 2nd gear instead of 3rd (instant spin). If it happens even once in a race, the race is usually over, especially if it's a tight battle for 1st place.

So, I was wondering if it would be possible to "smooth" the button inputs more or less the same way that the analog steer can be smoothed.

On a side note, I was wondering if anyone ever opened up a sidewinder wheel. I tried openning it (removing about 20 or so screws), but the base would still not come off. has anyone got any tips for that?

thanks,
avih

[bobvanvliet]

I know that some people have the same problem with a MOMO wheel. They solve it by putting a thin piece of rubber in the opening where the paddle sits in the housing so that it has less room to move from one side to the other. This stops it from registering two clicks.

Maybe this is something you can try?

[2WDinNZ]

Hi.
I have a MS Sidewinder FF USB wheel, and lately the left paddle started to occasionally produce 2 clicks instead of one when i use it. Since it's assigned to downshift, it has quite a devestating effect when i downshift to 2nd gear instead of 3rd (instant spin). If it happens even once in a race, the race is usually over, especially if it's a tight battle for 1st place.

So, I was wondering if it would be possible to "smooth" the button inputs more or less the same way that the analog steer can be smoothed.

On a side note, I was wondering if anyone ever opened up a sidewinder wheel. I tried openning it (removing about 20 or so screws), but the base would still not come off. has anyone got any tips for that?

thanks,
avih

You don't need to take the base apart.

Pry the centre cap off the wheel with something. Then pull off the FORCE button. There should be 4 screws. Take them out.

Pull the wheel forward. There should be some screws both behind the wheel part, and the centre of the wheel. Maybe 16 screws on the back of the wheel.

You can pull it apart and disconnect the wire from the curcuit board.

The button (and I have the same problem as you) is just a normal little button like the one you'd find in the remote for your car alarm. It is soldered onto PCB (which flexes, for the button). If you are skilled, perhaps you could remove the switch/button and solder another one on.

But there really aren't any easy fixes. It's a little more primitive inside than you'd think.

[avih]

Thanks for your replies.

@bobvanvliet: yes, a mechanical solution is possible, however, I was suggesting to add a software-filter for such cases. It's the same as the spikes of the analog steer, but it should be simpler to filter imho. just ignore clicks which happens right after previous click from the same button, inside a configurable time-slot duration.

@2WDinNZ: thanks. I found out myself already about taking off the center cap, openning the 4 screws and pulling the wheel out (i saw the screws below too, and it hangs on a wire). I didn't continue openning these bottom screws, but I'll have a go now.

re: more primitive than you think: hehe, yeh, i know lol. on top (below??) my computer science education i'm also an electronics technician (not that i use that skill too much), so, i've seen instruments open before. not as shiny as they look from outside ;)

thx again.
avih.

@Scawen: so, would it be possible to smooth button imputs?

[avih]

update report:

I've successfully opened the wheel (thx 2WDinNZ), applied few drops of PCB cleaning spray on the microswitch (only left paddle), and it's wokring pretty well now, about 2 hours of driving and zero false clicks so far :)

but i'll have to wait a month or two to really know if there are any long term side effects.

another solution which is possible, is to replace positions of the microswitches. there are 8 identical ones inside the sidewinder. a soldering-iron (?) is required, but it shouldn't be too hard for someone a bit familiar.

thx again guys, and i'll post another report in a month or two :)

avih

PS.
my initial suggestion to Scawen about smoothing button input still stands. i think it's a common issue with sidewinders at least. quite a shame since otherwise that's an excellent wheel...